the waffle shirt

Michael with basic waffle shirt with darts. All finishing, including serging is on the outside

the cowl...

This is a the famous "cowl" shirt. The neck piece is long enough to cover the whole head. This has not gone to the sample-maker yet but would like to have a few made in the next couple weeks. Since this was designed i have found lots of examples of other contemporary designers working with cowls or cowl-like knits. here are two versions...

my version of Raskolnikov's shirt

This is my version. The actual garment, being made now, has a fully finished inside. The elbow patches are larger and are outlines in red 5 needle stitching.

Crime and punishment...

John Hurt in the British tv adaptation of "Crime and Punishment". I love these British productions from the 70's and 80's, almost always shot on Betacam they have a particular aesthetic.

slashing

Slashing was a 16th century fad inspired by the clothes of soldiers. Here is an hoody style that was inspired by slashing. I had a lot of the dark red and light red fabric so I used the light red for the pocket linings...

The final yoke shirt

Not bad but, it finally made sense when we tried a super light weight dingy gray (with hint of purple) rayon on top of a charcoal gray. The fabric and is shear and looks like it's about to peal off. The only problem was having product made. Susan, my manufacturer, said she couldn't cut that kind of "yoke" pattern. So we did it by hand. See picts of Michael cutting out the graded "yoke" pieces. Threads were sewn across yoke for a kind of quilting affect. In the end we decided to keep them then. I now want to sell the shirts with hanging threads - cut them off yourself if you don't like them!

The yoke shirt

The pinkish and yellowish shirt is an early try-same with the blue one blue.

applique

I was thinking of ways to expand the function of the t-shirt and was playing with the idea of peeling layers. I tried monochromes and a few experiments with colors - based mainly on the fabric I had at hand.

Finding a name...

There has been a lot of going back and forth about a name for this line. More on the details of that in a future post. But for now, the line is called "The Mind/Body Problem". This name has gotten a serious thumbs down from just about everyone but it is a logic behind it. Somehow when my co-worker Matt Drazin showed me this Bast poster, it all made sense. Most likely the line name will changing every season along with its inspirations.